It was a celebration full of glamor and great national fashion.
One aspect that really caught my attention about the celebrations of the 20th anniversary of Portugal Fashion, during the presentation of the spring-summer collections 2016, were the garments of some of the young fashion designers in the “bloom passerelle", which I believe personally were of a high quality. These new national talents showed great sophisticated collections, creativity and aesthetic innovation that left me impressed. I liked it so much here are my nominees for the spring-summer 2016:
Eduardo Amorim presented "Untold" which is precisely what the creator demonstrates this new collection. The designer, through the details with thermoglue tape overlapping the seams, bands holding the area of arms, etc and still tries to represent the current system, where the false freedom of information and expression reigns. In contrast we see some details in deconstructed sleeves applied in odd spots to represent the liberation from oppression mentioned above, thus passing the idea of humanity freed gag censorship. With a color palette ranging between darker and lighter shades, the collection presents some notes and color materials such as, for example, techniques meshes ring paper and double-sided "aborrachadas". All this is a deconstruction of the classic pieces with new relaxed forms. This effect follows the allusion to a controversial and often camouflaged "democratic" and "free" society .
Inês Marques showed the collection "Lath" which is characterized by being rich in graphics and textures elements. Inspired by the aesthetics of artist Andy Vogt, and never forgetting the key perpetrator, wood, the young designer will reveal 'proposals with a very simplified design, and purified by straight lines with color mixtures and materials. " Inês Marques privileged "simple materials", such as twills, from which created" new results through different interventions in the tissues. The results, these, which she materialized in printed, applications and finishes. This creative process guarantees, makes her clothes in authentic works of art.
[UN] T is the brand of Tiago Silva,a fashion design student aged 24 from Modatex, born in Braga he attended visual arts, where he discovered a taste for art and fashion design. To his credit, already has an internship in industrial design in Petratex and participation (in collaboration with Marques Almeida and Carlos Couto) in Portugal Fashion. Winner of the “44 Young Artists Competition", sponsored by the Portuguese Institute of Sport and Youth, the creator takes preference for concept development and an enormous pleasure in making collections for a female audience. Two bodies and two materials, opposed to each other, collide where the mind becomes palpable within a solid body. "Frames" are taken this matter as the reaction they have with this struggle with the mind, which are disseminated in accordance with the surrounding atmosphere.
Daniela Barros has designed a collection that alludes to reflect on the words of Didion on moral values, experiences and acts. Experimental work that combines techniques and tailoring of details about a deconstructed silhouette. Denim, tencel and lyoncel Japanese silk 1980, traditionally used for kimonos are the main materials of the collection. The white, it conveys purity, in contrast to the depth of the black, with beige and blue also two-tone with a strong presence in the collection. Color blocks, a male vs. female harmonious composition, and overlays make up a structured figure, but at the same time fluid.
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Anabela Rodrigues, according to the young designer, "initially I researched images related to bipolar disorder and it really was what led me to find my theme. The goal is to make a collection with reversible pieces that can score and emphasize the idea of bipolarity, the positive / negative and black / white only. The name "Klecks" is due to the Rorschach test, which, though not a cure for this disorder, is one of the mechanisms used to discover disease. Therefore the collection puts images of stains such as print or laser cutting. The Rorschach test are always presented 10 pictures of spots and will only be displayed 10 in this work. The purpose is to convey the idea that there is a "disease" in the collection and I'm trying to examine it. With regard to volumes and forms, the pieces are structured and voluminous in the case of laser cutting. There are also contradictory pieces, quite fallen and fluid ".
In a footnote I will address two of fashion designers already established that have in common in their collections that celebration of 30 years, for different reasons.
Anabela Baldaque celebrated 30 years of a career she has decided to label as "in my own name," as a simple tribute to her brand. "The clothing does not overlap the soul of the person who wears it is important to leave room for the personality of each one to shine. We have a fluid collection, romantic, fun, which is built by the many long dresses and deconstructed skirts. Skirts that sometimes leave their fairer registration with asymmetric cracks and long pockets for larger and overlap diagonals and long shapes, making them unlikely. We have hyper-romantic blouses, enriched with debrums ribbons, barrettes, containing various fabrics of different textures, sometimes only standards. Also present mini tops, hard and inspired in the 70s fluids The collection has blue colors at various levels, from pale pink to peach, yellow and green camouflage, gold and black Brown. The materials range from silks, cottons to, sequins, embroidery and cambrics and a lot of fantasy. "
Nuno Baltazar, decided to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the movie "Out of Africa." Hence, his new collection "takes as its starting point the experience of Karen Blixen, Kenya, between 1917 and 1931. The fascinating textures, colors and the details of the Kikuyu tribe are the starting point for urban proposals where parts and sophisticated detail fuses with casual elements and easywear ". According to the description of the collection, "the x and h silhouettes earn three-dimensionality by the textures and wealth of ethnic elements. Anatomical structures, necklines in broken v, soleil skirts, details on the lines of the chest and waist accentuate a strong female figure. ivory, vanilla, caramel, marsala, blood, terracotta, persimmon and black are the colors protagonists of this season, which still are present neon tones, gold, bronze and denim blue. " The materials, the creator favored were cotton jacquard, viscose / cupro fabrics, crepes and natural silk, which coexist with three-dimensional fantasy elements, pleated and foil finishes.
