A Look at the Portuguese World

 

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The dazzling serenate

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Ana Paula Amorim is the designer responsible for the collections of a ready to wear Fashion Company. A brand that began seventeen years ago, as quotient, but has firmly implemented it's way in the domestic market under another name, Serenade, a line that reflects a more romantic, classic and very feminine universe.

How do you get your ideas for the collections of ready-to-wear?

Ana Paula Amorim: I do not travel a lot; I depend a lot on my imagination. The creative process begins with the book of fashion trends, which helps a lot and every fashion magazine. Through these images we see colors, cuts and market innovations. We will also research in the internet. This year, for example, trends are from the 60's, 70's and 80's. I see many Brazilian sites, because I think they have very funky clothes. They have ideas that are more for the summer. I watch also the collections of European designers, who are the ones I like more.

Who is the woman who wears the brand Serenade?

APA: They are women who are around between 25 years to 50 years of age. Buy my style of clothing, because they are bold. Attention, the more mature women want more clothes on the cutting edge of fashion trends and require updated lines. Now also is emerging very funny phenomenon of the larger women, they want also beautiful clothes, with taste, with details that they can't find on stores. We are already making clothes for these women with larger sizes, currently I am working with XXL, XXL, but the clothes are not so bold, they end up buying because there's a brutal market need for large sizes. They also want more basic, not so much in color, but printed pattern need a special care.

Why? Portuguese women like it or not printed?

APA: They like printed, but not all types. Must be mild, it can be bold, for example, I do not sell tiger patterns. I have loyal customers to such standards, but there are shops that do not even buy them. Giant flowers or white background fabric with brightly flowers, it's very dashing, they do not prefer it either. The Portuguese like to be more discreet.

In terms of colors, they also have a preference for gaudy tones or not so?

APA: Not so much. But oddly enough this year, the tones are located in the coral, gold, earth tones with the yellows and oranges and they are joining. Although the Portuguese women do not enjoy this kind of color, but as it is fashionable this year are buying it.

 

What are the colors that define the national female universe?

APA: The black is a base, is always there, in all clothes. Then the earth tones, ranging from brown, beige, until golden. This year, I presented a collection ceremony and they asked to include shades of coral, the flag green, Bordeaux, the color tile and shock pink that seems unlikely. There is a wide disparity, which is dependent for the occasion. If you go to the ceremony you are more daring, day-to-day bases are much more discreet. In everyday life, a Portuguese woman does not wear a pair of yellow or orange pants. The teenagers yes, mature women not really.

Note that Portuguese women are more concerned with their image, with its physical, with fashion and keeps up to date with the trends?

APA: I notice that in older women. Younger women are more relaxed. They are more daring and like to consume fashion. My best customers are located between 35 to well beyond 40 years of age. It is someone who cares more, I notice that now a woman with 40 years old takes more care of her body, everything is in place as we say and therefore can contain many models.

Do you have a fetish piece of clothing that is always a constant in the collections?

APA: They always like arches, is the kind of clothe that shows the shoulder wide enough to cover the fats. This is what we call satellite, because we do it every year, whether in summer or winter.

When you create the molding you have that care? To create pieces that hide those little imperfections?

APA: Yes, I try to have that detail in mind. This year there is a tendency for the skirts. Interestingly, it is the frilly dresses in the waist are capping these imperfections. Do not make people fatter because they are straight and large.

What part of the collection you like best to design?

APA: The gowns. It is a piece that takes work, has great design. They are pieces that you have to stick to the body, the modeling of this dresses have curved lines. It has more refinement is more manual, because it requires frills, loops, dots and elastics. It is also where I can be more creative. It becomes easier, because it is by choice. Sometimes it becomes more complicated to carry out a basic, because contrary to what people think is much more complicated, because we go the essentials.

The Serenade has several retail outlets nationally and in the islands, does you notes differences between them?

APA: We sell to Madera and the Azores. The last ones are more "cool" My customers from the center of the country curiously are also very discreet and prefer the basics. The women from Madera are more "hot" consume everything that has cleavage and with great design. The only difficulty lies in the winter collection I cannot sell it all because of certain clothes, such as furs, because of the mild climate. The best consumers of fashion are women from the North of the country. In terms of ceremony, they ask me flowing dresses, but the customers in Lisbon prefer a more romantic line. So I have to do two different lines in the same territory.

The Azorean are different in that sense?

APA: There are more basic. They are more discreet in choosing the colors, the prints, they always prefer everything smooth.

Your brand is essentially national, have you considered the possibility to launch into other markets?
APA: We are thinking to expand in Spain. We even have a contact in this regard, but for now we bet only on the domestic market because it has become increasingly difficult to answer the entire request. The company is small, but everything is going well despite the crisis.

What is the future of Serenade?
APA: We were thinking of launching first the collection for ceremony, before the ready fashion. In the summer, I always do three lines, the last of which focuses on sales. What I note is that there is an enormous demand for dresses for special occasions, I do not know why this is happening, but it is a phenomenon that I cannot ignore. We invested in nine dresses that sold very well. We do not intend to do just that, but it is a turning point.

www.serenata.pt

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