But, is not about the nine islands that I wish to wonder about, I like to tell you the story of the Gracious, which owes its name to its unique beauty. It is the less mountainous. The least rainy. The plain is cut by a crater, a remnant of a volcanic past still present in the memory of the people of these islands. The scarcity of water dried much of the landscape and the houses that dominate the local architecture are dressed in alb. So much so, they call it the white island. Its county, Santa Cruz da Graciosa has three parishes, Guadeloupe, a verdant land for grounding vegetables and cereals, the Light, with Carapacho spa and its natural's pools for the delight of the population and finally we reached Beach. In the cone of crater there is the cave of sulfur. A magnificent natural cavern that can be visit with the proper precautions, along a dissention into "hell", thru a circular staircase. They are 183 steps towards the boiling lava and its internal lake. They are the bowels of Gaia exhaling gray fumes, in contrast to the green that surrounds us. It's funny we reach the end of Graciosa, we its sea is filled of ghostly characters that dominated the waters and the lives of the people of this enchanting island.